Power issues. I’m struggling!

[lambrettadave]

I’m looking for an independent and compact power supply for my CRT SS 9900 to function. I’m a mobile operator.
For my car I use the Halfords 6 in1 power pack and it works very well and no issues.
However I also want to use my setup in my VW Transporter 2002. Ive attempted to use the Van’s power but it keep blowing the 10amp fuse in the van so unworkable.
I dont know much about electronic or power so I have no idea of lithium alternatives on the market.

So I want to use it while traveling but the Halford’s 6 in 1 power pack is too large for purpose. So dies anyone have any idea’s?
1. I dont want to have to spend a fortune.
2. I do not want to run a mains cable from the battery.

Thanks in advance

Rob.

I had a similar problem with blowing Fuses and to solve it I reduced the power of the radio and that worked for me, connecting the radio directly to a battery would eliminate the whole problem.
A secondary battery with a split charge relay might be a option for you

[ChubbyChops]

80 watt radios draw about 17 amps. Per what I read, posters radio produces 80 watts- hello.

lol

[Mitch]

CRT SS9900 Power : AM 30W, FM 50W, SSB 60W according to Knights.

60w ÷ 12v = 5amps approx.

Saying that, I've got a supposed 80/90 watt EuroCB amp that I'm selling that draws about 12amps so I'm not 100% sure the basic "laws" are always spot on

You're not accounting for the inefficiencies of the output transistors, at best (class C, OK for FM/AM, not linear so SSB audio poor) are about 70%. Pill transistors, if linear class A/AB, are only about 40% or so efficient, the rest used is turned into heat, hence the hot heatsinks. I don't know about FET's, I've not got any so couldn't say. Usually if a burner is rated at 200W, that's how much power it uses, not how much it outputs. My FT-857 draws just over 16A @13.8v for 100W out, which I think is about average, 220W used.

(Oh, and 500 posts now, woohoo)

[oldgeezer]

'60/12= 5 amps'. 60 watts is the output. Input amps is much higher than output amps.

[The Collector]

Ahh.. okeydokey. Is there a formula for working that out? Might come in handy at some point selling-wise.

[Mitch]

Ahh.. okeydokey. Is there a formula for working that out? Might come in handy at some point selling-wise.

Double it and add half again to be on the safe side, it won't be far off then.

[The Collector]

Cool, thanks. Should I have said "formulae" ?

[stanogs68]

Ahh.. okeydokey. Is there a formula for working that out? Might come in handy at some point selling-wise.

Double it and add half again to be on the safe side, it won't be far off then.

And just to be really sure ,double it

[The Collector]

So basically, this chap can't use this particular radio via the van's cigarette lighter socket unless he turns its power right down. Either a separate, direct-to-battery wire is required of sufficient thickness to power it at full-strength, or another power source like a leisure battery will be needed and recharged after every long radio session (or a split-charger used to top it up). A split-charger and a battery would probably be £100+ but some new wiring would be maybe a tenner including a fuseholder and connectors etc.

[Mitch]

@KiloBravo312 The simplest and cheapest solution would be to replace the 10 amp fag lighter fuse for a 20 amp one.

[The Collector]

Would the VW's wiring take 20amps though, that'd be my worry?
People used to melt the cigarette lighter socket's wiring when they used those cheap, nasty plug-in windscreen heaters a while back, although they were about 100-150watts.

I suggested a 15amp fuse swap a while back to see if that'd blow, but I thought even that might be pushing it somewhat.

[Mitch]

I would think so, if you take duty cycles into account he'd be listening mostly and only talking occasionally, as long as he wasn't playing music (like they do around here) he should be OK.